Which wall plugs?

Philocalist

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Bear in mind that my DIY prowess starts and ends with using a big hammer ... so be gentle with me :)
I've got to fasten a couple of fairly substantial bathroom cabinets to the wall, and I'd really prefer it if they stayed there once up.
Problem is, I've no real idea of the best type of plug to use - I'm hoping someone on here, a bit better clued-up than me, can point me in the right direction please?
Surface is tiled (tiles ARE firmly attached), but the tiles are not your typical ceramic bathroom tiles - they're a stone-effect finish, maybe 8mm thick, onto plasterboard panels that are apparently filled with some sort of heavyweight cardboard 'honeycomb'. Combined, Im guessing the total thickness of the tile and plasterboard face is likely around 16mm, maybe a bit more, before I'll find any sort of cavity behind - and that's assuming that I get through into a cavity (to let a plug open properly), rather than hit the honeycomb.

So, 2 questions - is the best way to drill through these with a 'proper' tile drill (or is there a better way?), and what are the best type of plugs I should be using?
Thanks! (y)
 

Markywhizz

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There are all sorts of fancy anchors on the market for plasterboard. They tend to be designed to expand behind the board as you tighten them up. I’m not expert enough to give you a particular recommendation. @Dave or @Wise Owl would know the best sort to use.
 

matti

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Ok, so your fixing into a paramount board wall, if it was me, I'd get some expansion toggle fixing, that way if you ever take the cabinet down, the fixing will stay in the wall, most expansion fixing say you will need a fixing gun to set the fixing in the wall, but if your careful with a drill, it'll work the same
 

rudd

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Before drilling (a small strip of electrical tape on tile helps keep bit true) check theres no pipe work or cables hidden away. ?
 

NobbyHall

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Theres a chap on Youtube called the Gosford handyman he has a couple videos about fixing up that would help
 

Dave

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As WO has posted above. If fixing to tiles flatten the little barbs down first.

If the tiles are ceramic then a normal tile drill will work, however if they are Porcelain or wall/floor tiles you will need a diamond bit to drill into them...

Normally used with a guide to stop the drill bit from sliding on the tile surface, but you can do it without if you put the drill bit on an angle to get a start and then straighten it up as you feed it in.
 

Wise Owl

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Heres a story for ya, i did a house refurb and the house interior walls were old Breeze Blocks think they were called Coke Blocks or summat, anyway i asked if they wanted a Board laminating onto the wall that was separating the Bathroom and the Kitchen, this guy being tighter than Cramp said no patch and skim. At a later date when it was all done and looking Lovely he decided to put a cupboard on that wall :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: He drill 2 holes perfectly in line with the Kitchen cupboard above the Cooker hood which came tumbling down and smashed the Ceramic hob :eek: @Dave will tell ya them Blocks were only 2 inch thick and about as strong as weak cup of tea.
 

brian carragher

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If it helps once you've got the units up is to use a good quality grab adhesive as well

Once you've got the units up and plumbed and levelled you can swing the bottom of the unit off the wall and squeeze a couple of blobs of grab onto the wall just above the sight lines of the bottom of the unit where the carcass hits the wall and push the unit into the grab and wall

Recheck plumb and level and then tighten hangers tight against the bracket , it'll never fall off the wall even if your hanging bracket fixings are a bit suspect
 

Wise Owl

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If it helps once you've got the units up is to use a good quality grab adhesive as well

Once you've got the units up and plumbed and levelled you can swing the bottom of the unit off the wall and squeeze a couple of blobs of grab onto the wall just above the sight lines of the bottom of the unit where the carcass hits the wall and push the unit into the grab and wall

Recheck plumb and level and then tighten hangers tight against the bracket , it'll never fall off the wall even if your hanging bracket fixings are a bit suspect

Good Call (y) Gorilla Glue, i stick plasterboards to RSJ's with it and believe me ya cant get em off.
 

mickthechippy

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be aware that when using a expansion fixing into tile, you may crack the tile, it is always worth drilling the hole in the tile a couple of mm bigger than the fixing into the back substrate

eg a 10mm hole through the tile and then change to a 7 or 8mm drill bit for the fixings hole,

the star dowel fixings wisey quotes will provide a fair bit of surface area behind the back board
 

mickthechippy

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Heres a story for ya, i did a house refurb and the house interior walls were old Breeze Blocks think they were called Coke Blocks or summat, anyway i asked if they wanted a Board laminating onto the wall that was separating the Bathroom and the Kitchen, this guy being tighter than Cramp said no patch and skim. At a later date when it was all done and looking Lovely he decided to put a cupboard on that wall :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: He drill 2 holes perfectly in line with the Kitchen cupboard above the Cooker hood which came tumbling down and smashed the Ceramic hob :eek: @Dave will tell ya them Blocks were only 2 inch thick and about as strong as weak cup of tea.

Ashlar blocks, they were made from the waste from coke works, dirty dusty bloody things
 

Wise Owl

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Ashlar blocks, they were made from the waste from coke works, dirty dusty bloody things

Thats why i said id Laminate a half inch board on mate at least it would have given an overall solid Background. The electrician was going apeshit channeling his wires in.
 

Philocalist

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Just a (late) thought / question - given the option, am I better drilling through the tile, or drilling holes along a grout line, between tiles? :unsure:
 

Dave

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It shouldn't make a difference as long as the adhesive is evenly spread at the back of the tile and not just blobbed on .
You'll soon find out when you tighten down as the tile dtands more chance of cracking near the edge. Saying that it will be behind a cabinet anyway.
 
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