What are your top braid tips?

Alantherose

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Hi Drowners,

I am just about to launch into the world of braid (mainline) for feeder work. Shamelessly looking to pillage your top 2-3 (or more) tips and/or experiences to help me on my way 😊

Al
 

TrickyD

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Never used it, but mainly keep it wet (but don't dip your reel in the drink) and have a shock leader to help protect your fingers. Maybe check your rod eyes are suitable for braid as well. I think 8 strand (or higher) is best.
 

juttle

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Load it wet and whatever knots you use give it ten twists. The uniknot, for instance, is usually tied with 5 or 6 turns around the mainline, for use with braid give it ten.
 

tipitinmick

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Nicky Dodds put me onto the improved Albright knot. This knot is used to tie a leader to your braid. You can trim it really really tight and it still retains 100% of its strength.

It took me a few years to get used to braid. Two pointers ..... don’t strike too hard and take a little extra care when you have the fish at your landing net. Hook pulls are common if you are not extra careful as there is no stretch with braid whatsoever.

Good luck.
 

SteveAmo

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Always soak your braid overnight before you put it on your spool

Use around 8m of mono shockleader 10 to 12 lb breaking strain is about right

Wet your braid as soon as you arrive at your peg.

Wet it again before your first cast.

Give it a squirt of diluted washing up liquid afew times during your session

Don’t strike just pick up your rod

Hope the above helps
 

Godber

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I've been experimenting with braid and mono shockleaders. I now use a 1meter length of mono tied to my braid with a 4 turn water knot. I prefer to cast off braid and have no knots going through the rings. If you decide on the longer length mono use the albright or water knot, they are by far the neatest. Use the heaviest quiver tip you can get away with to reduce the whip when casting. I have had the braid wrap around the tip ring by the whip effect.
Because of its lower diameter you can use a higher breaking strain braid to cope with long casts and heavy feeders.
Big reels, 5000 size, and rods with big rings help to reach longer distances.
Stand up to cast.
 

Arry

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Don't spool up to the lip of your spool, keep it wet, use a mono leader and hooklink and use a soft rod with a slackish drag...
 

Tinca Steve

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As above AND ! Tighten the clutch up as any clutch slip when casting off braid could cost you a visit to A and E.
 

Ben Field

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Braids have changed a lot over the years and a lot of what you hear now are old theories, or not necessary.

Wetting it is one of the main ones. Braids have come a long way. There are still bad ones out there, but they’re fewer these days and most behave far better than they used to.

Ask many why it must be wet and most wont actually have an answer (sorry for sounding like a dick ).

Even if you don’t realise it, the actual reason that wetting it has taken off is that it increases friction on the cast. Since most of us like our reels looking fancy and pro, we load them right to the lip, just like with mono. While mono can handle this because it’s a stiffer material, braid is so supple that it comes from the spool too easily, so you get wind knots and crackoffs. The act of adding water does nothing but slow the braid down by adding a touch of resistance and friction as the line is leaving the spool. So wind knots or crack-offs are reduced. Of course, if you just underfill the spool by 2-3mm in the first place, you create all of the extra friction due to the extra spool edge, so you do away with needing the water to add the friction, or having to constantly worry that you may or may not have sprayed it enough. With mono you’d be losing casting distance by doing so as the amount of extra friction on the spool lip would slow things down. Modern braids are so supple however, that you lose almost zero distance, but do cut your risk of any wind knots or problems dramatically.
There were also theories about it “bedding in” on itself that water can solve. Again, braids are more tightly woven these days and we’re well past that point. Unless... you do need to put it on under some tension.
Wind knots will be caused almost exclusively by slack line getting back on to your spool.

1) Don’t overload the spool.

2) Wind it on under some tension. To be fair I usually just do it between my fingers. I’ve never cut myself. OR, if I’m feeling less lazy then I will pop the spool in a bucket of water. This has absolutely zero to do with wanting it wet, but the water does a nice job of holding the spool still whilst also letting it spin. Otherwise I end up chasing it around the room!

3) Close the bail arm manually when you’ve cast (cranking the handle over automatically puts one loose loop back on).

4) Pick up any slack line floating in the air and wind it back on under some tension (pull your rod to the side to tighten. Bringing it low so that the braid catches the waters surface can be enough).

Like Godber, I typically use a 1m leader now. My fishing is all less than 50m though. For long casts I’d use longer, on a rod with bigger guides so you don’t have to worry about the knot catching.
Although I can be a knob when talking lines, as far as leader knots go, I’m not too fussy any more. I use Albright’s exclusively for lure fishing (though I know an FG knot is stronger), and although I use one when feeder fishing most of the time, I never experience problems if I use loop-loop either. It’s fine on a short leader anyway.
 
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ATTICUS FINCH

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My No1 tip don't bother with a mono or anything else as a shock leader , you don't need one .and who wants a knot rattling thru the rod rings every cast.
 

rudd

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Keep braid wet when using.
If casting at distance or with heavy loads - wear a finger stall (I use one beach casting mono with fixed spool - saves alot of pain).

Now here is a little known tool - pricey but worth its weight in gold when on the bank and a leader needs tying.
Watched a club member use one two weekends back, on the bank in wet/windy conditions he tied a new flurocarbon leader on in seconds.
An improved allbright would take me a few minutes in good dry conditions.


 

SpenBeck

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Braid sounds like a lot of trouble. I've tried it twice in the past come back to mono.
 

grey

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Nothing much to add that Ben field hasn't said, a really good write-up. Just a bit about the types of braid on the market.

You'll find Spectra and Dyneema braids, and as I understand it, Dyneema is the product and Spectra a licence brand (that uses raw Dyneema) so basically the same material using different manufacturing process. As a braid they are both incredibly similar. Dacron is also the same material but spun around a solid core.

You'll see 4 strand, 8 strand braids, these are simply woven braids: 4 strand is generally harder wearing than 8 strand; 8 strand is smoother and easier to cast but can suffer from abrasion. The type (basket or diamond wove) and tightness of weave is important as it alters how soft or smooth the end product is. Sufix 832, Shimano Kairiki are the best 8 strands IMO, Daiwa's J4 is the best 4 strand (avoid the J8 it's a nightmare for snapping) Power Pro is the best single strand.

Stay away from Chinese made stuff, they do make some okay braids but it isn't under licence so you're just paying for some cheap rip-off of someone else's invention/development.

Finally, I emphasise the fact the weakest part of braid is the knot. For mono, you might achieve 95% strength in a good knot, with braid you'll only achieve 60% at best, factor this in when choosing the breaking strain. I usually double the required strength with braid (and often still add a bit on).
 

Arry

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I tried Braid years ago for long range feeder fishing... I had more trouble with it than any other line bar none... for me the disadvantages far outweighed the advantages and I went back to mono... but I suppose back then I didn't have the knowledge about its use that I do now.... that said, I still wouldn't bother.... I use braid only for drop shotting now with a fluouro leader
 

Ben Field

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Braid sounds like a lot of trouble. I've tried it twice in the past come back to mono.
It’s ok. It’s really not.
Aside from potentially needing to tie a new knot (to connect a leader), if you use a modern braid and don’t fill the spool right to the lip, you’ll never need to worry about it again. I think I’ve had one crack off in about the past 3 years, having fished nothing but feeder matches.
 

Ben Field

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I work in a tackle shop and regularly hear people say they tried braid years ago, didn’t get on and will never use it again. Biggest mistake ever if you’re fishing 30m+ and are allowed to use it. Things have moved on and it’s not bad stuff any more. I don’t use it on my 9’ and 10’ rods as mono is great at short range for various reasons.
 

Arry

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with hard chrome rings does it still wear them out as it used to...? not all rod rings are lined... I used it with my browning Aggressor 13' heavy feeder (ceramic ring inserts...) it cut the inserts to bits
 
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