- Dec 3, 2006
You may find that the 3mm hollow has an internal diameter of only 1mm or even 0.8mm, so you may need to use a piece of fibre glass as a spigot to connect the two.
If you cut a hole in the base of the hollow bristle, reinforce the back of the bristle at that point with Araldite then cut off the top of the bristle so that water can flow within the bristle you retain the visibility of the 3mm but with the sensitivity of a much thinner bristle. I make many of my wagglers for stillwater this way.Hello float makers, after a bit of advise I bought some N G loaded wagglers cracking floats casting is possibly the best I've used but he has put some mighty long 3mm hollow bristle on them which is fine for long range and when the fish is havin it big style but I was wondering if I cut the bristle say 10mm up and try and super glue a 1.5mm bristle in apart from maybe altering the fine tune shot, I just want a little more finesse, thoughts please. I know I should just build my own, but be honest I'm happy to butcher adapt someone else's work
The tips I use are 3mm with a 2.5mm hole so the hole in the side is at least 2mm x 2,5 mm and cut with a scalpel. A hole of 0.3mm won't be big enough as the water neds to flow as freely as possible.@MarkW I've got a micro hand drill set would a .3mm hole in the base keep the structural integrity whilst allowing water to flow if cutting off the top, was also thinking of cutting them to 10mm then internal bore it out to 1.2mm and using some ready made bristles to plug the hole that way I can change the colour to suit the conditions. Thoughts please.
Now thats True art ! Beautifull Atleast ! Of your Creation ? / Paul Roger NilssonWas thinking now there are more professional floatmakers out there and more and more people seem to be interested in making a few for themselves as a hobby.
Why can the floatmakers section of the forum come back as I am sure loads of people would love it and contribute helping each other out.
Making some stepped reed floats but need to have some some of filler to give me a chamfer between the 2 diameters. Have tried paring the larger down with a scalpel but once you have removed the outer rind you have the inner softer pith. Needs to be flexible out the tube, so I can mould it, but will firm down and be waterproof. Tried various silicon sealants - but they are too soft when hard.
Ronseal 'natural' colour, 2 part epoxy wood filler is just about fine enough and dries hard. Adheres well so long as the reeds have been dewaxed. Unlike many hard fillers, it is very light and suitable for exterior work, also takes stain or paint very well and is a similar base colour to reed.Making some stepped reed floats but need to have some some of filler to give me a chamfer between the 2 diameters. Have tried paring the larger down with a scalpel but once you have removed the outer rind you have the inner softer pith. Needs to be flexible out the tube, so I can mould it, but will firm down and be waterproof. Tried various silicon sealants - but they are too soft when hard.