The Floatmakers Thread

buygoodtackle

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You may find that the 3mm hollow has an internal diameter of only 1mm or even 0.8mm, so you may need to use a piece of fibre glass as a spigot to connect the two.
 

Fugley-fisher

Fishing the stour dorset, most probably!
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@buygoodtackle cheers for the advise ill just have to buy some bristles and fiber stems chop one up and try, I've got some more N G floats on order
 

MarkW

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Hello float makers, after a bit of advise I bought some N G loaded wagglers cracking floats casting is possibly the best I've used but he has put some mighty long 3mm hollow bristle on them which is fine for long range and when the fish is havin it big style but I was wondering if I cut the bristle say 10mm up and try and super glue a 1.5mm bristle in apart from maybe altering the fine tune shot, I just want a little more finesse, thoughts please. I know I should just build my own, but be honest I'm happy to butcher adapt someone else's work ;)
If you cut a hole in the base of the hollow bristle, reinforce the back of the bristle at that point with Araldite then cut off the top of the bristle so that water can flow within the bristle you retain the visibility of the 3mm but with the sensitivity of a much thinner bristle. I make many of my wagglers for stillwater this way.
 

Fugley-fisher

Fishing the stour dorset, most probably!
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@MarkW I've got a micro hand drill set would a .3mm hole in the base keep the structural integrity whilst allowing water to flow if cutting off the top, was also thinking of cutting them to 10mm then internal bore it out to 1.2mm and using some ready made bristles to plug the hole that way I can change the colour to suit the conditions. Thoughts please.
 

Fugley-fisher

Fishing the stour dorset, most probably!
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@Tinca Steve in a word yes, I was fishing at range the wind got up I had the float dotted down the float got swamped so had to show more bristle at that point the smaller fish were not pulling the float under and I had trouble reading it, some very unfortunate roach got deep hooked, the large 3mm bristle had to much buoyancy. If all the fish were a larger stamp and competing for bait it would not have been an issue, as I like the float pattern and loading my intension would be to have a selection some original some with modifications to suit conditions. I was wondering if what I proposed was feasible before I got stuck into a perfectly good float and made it a perfect disaster.
 

MarkW

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@MarkW I've got a micro hand drill set would a .3mm hole in the base keep the structural integrity whilst allowing water to flow if cutting off the top, was also thinking of cutting them to 10mm then internal bore it out to 1.2mm and using some ready made bristles to plug the hole that way I can change the colour to suit the conditions. Thoughts please.
The tips I use are 3mm with a 2.5mm hole so the hole in the side is at least 2mm x 2,5 mm and cut with a scalpel. A hole of 0.3mm won't be big enough as the water neds to flow as freely as possible.
 

Fugley-fisher

Fishing the stour dorset, most probably!
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Thanks @MarkW Given me food for thought when I've decided upon a course of action I'll share my finding and outcomes.
 

PRN-Sweden

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Nice Thread this! Been making some rough and first stages of floates of cava corks and champagne and balsa and some odd driftwood from the riverbanks most for pike zander and perch even some trotting/avon floats good fun during winter . Been testing different brands of epoxy glues and what can i say some are just weird to work with .
Some have helped me catch some nice fishes (i reguraly buy floats of different brands drennan behr so on ) i do flyfish and tie my own flies hell i even asembled an own flyrod once . But here it goes and ive tried to learn from texts and pictures And yes i Use my equipment i dont cuddle them ..(not thats any wrong doing but yes i use my floats ,its like owning a Rembrandt painting but not lookin at it )
Going to read up on this thread some more ! What craftingskills there are out in the fishing community !
/Paul Roger Nilsson
 

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PRN-Sweden

Nerd woth a keen Interest of Learning !
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Was thinking now there are more professional floatmakers out there and more and more people seem to be interested in making a few for themselves as a hobby.
Why can the floatmakers section of the forum come back as I am sure loads of people would love it and contribute helping each other out.
Thanks
Jamie

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Now thats True art ! Beautifull Atleast ! Of your Creation ? / Paul Roger Nilsson
 

PRN-Sweden

Nerd woth a keen Interest of Learning !
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Floats006.jpg

The ones in the band are Drake floats, lovely little bodied quills.
Floats007.jpg

This Zoomer has multiple tips courtesy of a Drennan Tough Eye Pole Float...
Floats005.jpg

The ones in the blue box are purchased floats, not mine.
Floats001.jpg

Floats003.jpg
Now Those Look AWESOME! Really Good Work ! /Paul Roger Nilsson
 

adriang

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I've a bunch of paintbrush handles left over from my rod building activities. Ideal for float stems, but I'm not going to get time to make stick floats.

Does anybody want them? I'd prefer they were reused rather than put in the bins.

Happy to post them.

IMG_7140.jpeg
 

Barbelcatcher

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Making some stepped reed floats but need to have some some of filler to give me a chamfer between the 2 diameters. Have tried paring the larger down with a scalpel but once you have removed the outer rind you have the inner softer pith. Needs to be flexible out the tube, so I can mould it, but will firm down and be waterproof. Tried various silicon sealants - but they are too soft when hard.
 

adriang

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Making some stepped reed floats but need to have some some of filler to give me a chamfer between the 2 diameters. Have tried paring the larger down with a scalpel but once you have removed the outer rind you have the inner softer pith. Needs to be flexible out the tube, so I can mould it, but will firm down and be waterproof. Tried various silicon sealants - but they are too soft when hard.

I started by just using 2 minute epoxy, used a flat piece of plastic as a spatular to fill it, I also use epoxy to fill the top of the reed and create a dome.

Next batch I cut some thin rings of reed in various diameters using a dremel cutoff disk and built up the difference in a series of steps, glueing them in place with superglue. It was a bit of a faff, but they did finish better (also use the same approach to seal the tops so I wasn't using so much glue and could do it in one single application.

I do finish the stepped down part with paint.

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grey

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Making some stepped reed floats but need to have some some of filler to give me a chamfer between the 2 diameters. Have tried paring the larger down with a scalpel but once you have removed the outer rind you have the inner softer pith. Needs to be flexible out the tube, so I can mould it, but will firm down and be waterproof. Tried various silicon sealants - but they are too soft when hard.
Ronseal 'natural' colour, 2 part epoxy wood filler is just about fine enough and dries hard. Adheres well so long as the reeds have been dewaxed. Unlike many hard fillers, it is very light and suitable for exterior work, also takes stain or paint very well and is a similar base colour to reed.

Roughly sand away excess after 10 mins setting time, then fine sand after half an hour when fully hardened.
 
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