Power supply to a shed

[Dave Spence]

I want to wire my shed with a few power points and a couple of neon tubes. I was thinking of getting the power supply to it via a standard extension lead but I have been advised that the voltage drop will be too great; my shed is about 40 yards from the nearest socket in the house. As we are moving I don't want to go to the expense of running an armoured cable from the house c/b. There will never be more than one power point and both tubes on at any one time; is there anything that I can buy that will boost the voltage? I could get a portable generator but I am concerned about the noise if I want to work into the late evening. Any advice would be gratefully received.

 

[Brian the Fish]

Wire armoured cable and a circuit board fitted in the shed, then wire from there to sockets and lights, expensive but safe.

P.S Happy Birthday again.

 

[Markywhizz]

Brian has the right idea. That’s just how I did mine. You can get nice little consumer units for sheds/garages.

 

[Brythebagger]

Little 4 way garage board would be bang on. Screwfix do some ok ones.
Got some armoured if you need some cheap

 

[Dave]

Also, use 4mm armoured for what you need, don't go cheap with 2.5mm as you'll have problems

 

[mickthechippy]

if you dont want to run permanent fixed cable or an extention lead

you could purchase a silent generator

I have a little honda suitcase one that goes out with me when I camp out in the van, its almost silent, just a hum in the background really

plus you could take it with you eire when you go

 

[Dave Spence]

if you dont want to run permanent fixed cable or an extention lead

you could purchase a silent generator

I have a little honda suitcase one that goes out with me when I camp out in the van, its almost silent, just a hum in the background really

plus you could take it with you eire when you go

I think the generator is going to be my best bet. I have been told that my power tools could be damaged if I use them on an extension lead of this length (approx 40 yards)

 

[Dave]

Have you thought about something like this?

All Lengths Arctic Flex Cable Blue Yellow 1.5mm 2.5mm 4mm 6mm 3183AG 3 Core Flex | eBay

Arctic grade cable is ideal for outdoor use as its able to remain flexible even at sub zero temperatures. This cable isn't supplied with plugs or sockets so is ideal for you to make your own extension leads or use for other applications.

www.ebay.co.uk

You will need a socket putting on the back wall of your house with a 4mm T&E supply from the consumer unit and a plug at the shed end into your distribution board.
And a plug and socket fitting to the 4mm cable to connect it

 

[mickthechippy]

On site we often use 50mtr extention cables, yellow flex 2.5mm 3 core

running off a 110v transformer, hooked into a standard domestic supply

the biggest drain tool that I use off this is a 2000w heavy duty router, or a 1800w circular saw

never heard of them getting damaged by being fed down a long lead, the only thing that comes to mind like that is charging battery tools off a gennie, they dont like that, summat to do with phase changes ???

 

[spark1]

I think the generator is going to be my best bet. I have been told that my power tools could be damaged if I use them on an extension lead of this length (approx 40 yards)

The worst case your power tools won't work properly if you get a volt drop due to cable size and length of run.

 

[Dave Spence]

Thanks fella's, that's put my mind at rest, I will give it a try. The missus has bought me a really nice Makita router and Trend router table and I can't wait to try them out, unfortunately she won't let me use them in the lounge

 

[mickthechippy]

I use a big old Makita router dave, proper beast it is, and the crack is, Ive had it better part of 20 years and subjected it to a fair bit of abuse, all its ever needed maintenance wise is a set of new brushes and that was 10 minutes work to change and fit

good buy from the mrs there

 

[banksy]

Wire armoured cable and a circuit board fitted in the shed, then wire from there to sockets and lights, expensive but safe.

P.S Happy Birthday again.

The only way to go.
And take it with you when you move!

 

[Dave Spence]

I've just received my very last present; a bl***y box to s**t in from the NHS. I don't mind getting old but I hate to be reminded of it

 

[david white]

I've just received my very last present; a bl***y box to s**t in from the NHS. I don't mind getting old but I hate to be reminded of it

All joking aside the tests are for a reason, get it done and sent off, the feeling you’ll get ( assuming its the all clear ) is a relief ( if you pardon the pun !! )

 

[Markywhizz]

I’m an electrical engineer.

You won’t do any harm using a long extension. Make sure you get a 13A one though and not a 10A. I’ve used 50m ones without any problem in the past. You will get a voltage drop but if it’s a good quality cable it shouldn’t be noticeable.

Extension leads are not ideal as a permanent installation though as it’s too easy to damage the cable whilst gardening or wildlife can chew the cable. It would be ok if you only put it out when you need it.

 

[Markywhizz]

The cable @Dave recommended would be ideal. If you use 4mm it would be as good as SWA from an electrical perspective.

You wouldn’t need a 4mm cable in your house as you are only going to that size in the cable to minimise the voltage drop. You could put a 13a plug and 13a trailing socket on it to make a beefed up extension lead. You may need to trim just a few strands of the cable away to get it to go into the terminals.

 

[Stansthirdboy]

When I had an "er indoors" my only solution to get power to the shed 50 yds away was an extension cable.
I'd say go fro the industrial type as suggested, not one you'd use for the lawn mower, 4mm minimum, I never had any issues running an 8ft LED tube and power tools off it.

 

[Somersetlad]

The heavy duty extension lead is the way to go, make sure you've got rcd protection at the house end. Any permanent connection into your house electrics, would need to be signed off by a qualified electrician as it would need to conform to the IEE 18th edition and part P of building regs.