Pole floats

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@crayfishtraps i have the same question, I have whipped and superglued the eye to the stem, then added the body and bristle and hand painted and the finish is Ok, nothing more. If you dip in paint and then lacquer I was wondering how you can protect the eye :unsure:
 

crayfishtraps

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ive allways used spring eyes...not side eyes..ive got side eys but to fidley trying to paint round them.
 

ukzero1

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couple of questions...you say you dip float bodies in paint,,,..instead of painting by brushes..what do you use to stop paint going into hole for stem...and what do you use to hang them to dry?
Glue the stem in place first, use that to dip the body into the paint, I use a hair dryer on low heat and low speed to dry the paint but turn the floats upside down/right way up and you'll get no runs. I use stiff foam or thick polystyrene for doing that job if I'm doing them in quantity. In summer when the weather is warm, you can use a normal fan on slow speed to dry them. Which ever you use, keep the fan approx 12 to 18 inches away from the floats while drying or they could blow over (hence the slow speed).

I always put the eye on last, that way it's not bunged up with paint/lacquer.
 
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crayfishtraps

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is that using humbrol paint..with thinners..then find a tub to put it into..ive got small humbrol enamel paint tins..only small though..would that be a 50/50 mix of paint and thinners?
 

Anglingman

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I glue body to stem, paint, attact/insert tip (this is 1.2mm solid tip) sign write then "pin" hole the eye location. bend 15mm twisted side eye eye to 90 deg (approx) then push into "pinned" hole dry until snug, remove and glue. you can create the pin hole with a sharpened piece of 0.6mm wire glued to 2.5mm float stem to give you a handle. When creating the hole you can actually angle towards and down the internal stem. the glue then fuses to the stem inside the body adding strength. finish with 3 coats of diamond hard varnish.

Am not sure you can totally eradicate side eyes pulling out but you can definitely add significant strength. On some commerical floats youve got to look at a side eye and it starts fluttering...... :p



IMG_1770 (2).jpeg
 

Fred Davis

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Another method is to pass the stem through the eye and then glue the eye to the stem obviously larger side eyes are used in this process
 

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Fred Davis

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right having glued the pole float body to the stem, I personally leave the bristle to last, some pole float makers no longer dope a rohacell body,, which we used to do when machining floats bodies from balsa, but I still do, as I find I get a better paint finish, follow this with two thin coats of paint and two thin coats of varnish, leave plenty of drying time before each coat, you don't want a bodge job, some of the hand made floats I have seen are disgraceful in finish and construction, I have seen float springs 2mm away from the body paint slap dashed on, ok if your making them for your selves but these have been put up for sale, In fact one pole float maker I know who sells loads on e bay is of such an ilk and I do smile when I see anglers singing his praises, however I look at it like this when making my floats, I want to use the best I make my floats for me to use, I want them perfect, if my mates want some then fine but they are made for my use first and foremost.
 

Fred Davis

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A copy of a well known margin float with spring eye or side eye, if you click on the picture you can see the floats better, when copying patterns you need to make the adjustments the float bristle with the spring eye is in fact a spring eye length longer than the one with a side eye, however when making quite a few patterns of the same float with spring eye or side eye it pays to pay attention to detail.
 

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These are my first try’s. I’m debating why paint with a couple of coats, what is the purpose, is it for performance or aesthetics. The float on the left has been primed and painted and lacquered but the float on the right just primed and lacquered. What’s the difference?
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crayfishtraps

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think its maily for extra protection..and looks better on display...i used to paint mine blue or black...but allways painted mine by brush..but never rearly got a good finish...that why i asked how they dip theres in paint with no paint going into the hole for the stem/bristle?
 
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think its maily for extra protection..and looks better on display...i used to paint mine blue or black...but allways painted mine by brush..but never rearly got a good finish...that why i asked how they dip theres in paint with no paint going into the hole for the stem/bristle?
That’s what I thought, now just looking at some the better float makers floats, it appears that the the paint is very thin, it’s the lacquer that is thicker and perhaps more important.

yes I would still like to know if it’s possible to dip into the paint when the eye has been fitted and what you could use to protect the eye? Any expert opinion out there?
 

crayfishtraps

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im not worried about side eyes as i prefer spring eyes..but each to there own.....im more interested on how you can dip float bodies into paint without paint stopping the hollow tips going on?or with tips fitted?
 
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im not worried about side eyes as i prefer spring eyes..but each to there own.....im more interested on how you can dip float bodies into paint without paint stopping the hollow tips going on?or with tips fitted?
I would just put the hollow tip on at the end. Dip the paint and clean the carbon or glass stem that has extended past the body and then put the hollow tip and spring eye on after the body has dried.
 
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