Pole floats

2lbRoach2hand

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@Anglingman - yes, very true. I haven't tried them yet (although I am a float tart so I'll prob get some soon to try lol) - have you tried them yourself yet or know anyone that has??
 

Anglingman

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@Anglingman - yes, very true. I haven't tried them yet (although I am a float tart so I'll prob get some soon to try lol) - have you tried them yourself yet or know anyone that has??
hi indeed I have !, i make them so have great opportunity. Because of the no memory properties of this wire I am slowly changing the majority of my personal rigs over to to these, I love the stability and "instant" fishing of wire so suits me perfectly (y)
 

richox12

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Sorry but spring eyes just don’t do it, too many times snapped line, sure the floats are fine quality and in most cases will do the job but are not totally reliable in match situations, just ask Mick Wilkinson.
Wrong type of spring eye
 

richox12

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The fatter the body the more stable in wind usually ,which goes hand in hand with the weight ,you need more shot to set the float right . Slimmer bodies are good in calmer situations and shy biting fish ... that's a generalization I work on
Why ?

So a fat sphere as opposed to a body down (inverted pear lets say) ?

In my book the lower the body (as in the further under the surface it is) the better in wind. So a longer tip helps a lot. I'd rather use an inverted pear than a fat sphere.
 

2lbRoach2hand

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hi indeed I have !, i make them so have great opportunity. Because of the no memory properties of this wire I am slowly changing the majority of my personal rigs over to to these, I love the stability and "instant" fishing of wire so suits me perfectly (y)
I've sent you a message on your website mate.........
 

robert d

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Why ?

So a fat sphere as opposed to a body down (inverted pear lets say) ?

In my book the lower the body (as in the further under the surface it is) the better in wind. So a longer tip helps a lot. I'd rather use an inverted pear than a fat sphere.
Exactly ,I was generalizing without going into to much detail. Wire stems are also much better in tow , the more shot you have the more stable it will be and if you get the body under the surface with a longer tip even better. I fish through the water on the drop I would use a carbon stem ,in the margin and across to the far bank a short fibreglass stem . If I want to fish on the bottom and get bait down quicker a heavier wire stem . There are many float bodies that help in wind and tow from diamond to rugby ball and longer tipped floats. The op only wanted a rough guide so that's what I gave .
 

Steve88

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Apr 3, 2020
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I went with a selection of drennan carp floats, I think I went for a few weights in carp 1,5 & 4. Mainly went for these as this was what the shop I went to had most weights in. At least now I can use a few get used to tying rigs and then see which I like the most
 

Fred Davis

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I'll be quite honest I make all my own floats, and copy most patterns of popular floats including making specials I am just about to make my good friend Rob Pottinger some more punch floats for the canal but mostly my floats are for use on commercials, In the main I use spring eyes I do make certain floats with side eyes, however spring eyes are extremely strong I hear all this nonsense about the weight of the spring eye unbalances the float line snaps at the spring line goes around the spring, increases tangles well in over ten years of using spring eyes I have yet to encounter any problems in fact side eyes will rip out tangles are more frequent, the spring eye is certainly robust and better for bagging big weights and big fish. I don't think Mick has made a float with a spring eye he just doesn't all his floats as far as I can remember going way back all had side eyes I may of coarse be wrong but we all have our view on what makes a good float, bit like lines lol
 

Anglingman

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theres a big difference between a std spring eye and an Ultimate spring eye.....i stopped using std spring eyes on all my floats more than 4 years ago......
 

Fred Davis

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Yes the ultimate spring eye is fool proof which are mainly used these days however to be honest never had any trouble with the original which are no longer sold as the line had to get through my varnish before it could get trapped in the wire
 

Steve88

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I'm going to go down the route of a slim stretched rugby ball, with 1.5mm to 2mm tips for anything on the deck and change shotting pattern dependant on what I'm trying to achieve/bait to be used.

The same type of float with a solid tip for in the winter.

Think I'm going to go with the drennan crystal in the margin.

Shallow, I'm going with a jigger as I don't have that many top kits setup to have numerous shallow rigs set up at different depths.
 

Neil ofthe nene

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me neither

Don't stress about shapes, bristles and stem materials. All floats will work and catch you fish. Go with what looks suitable to you. In time you may decide that certain attributes of a float do the job better. Concentrate more on location, feeding and presentation. These things will have a greater influence on your catch rate than the minutiae of float shape/material/size.

Stick to a limited range of floats to avoid confusing yourself and learn how they work for you. And like the feeder fishing mantra of "Don't move the feeder!", dot the float down as low as you dare and conditions allow.
 

rudd

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Now hopefully someone isn't going to tell me that's completely the wrong idea ???
The only person who ultimately will know what you want/need is yourself.
You can get as much advice as you can but only you can put into practice on the venues you fish.
Stick to basic patterns and ask other anglers what they are using and why on the waters you fish.
Then add to what you have but always understand why you have certain floats and their usage.
 
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