Pole float making, finishing

[Andy1989]

I have decided to have a crack at making my own pole floats. Happy with assembling the floats, but I'm struggling to find a good method to finish/paint them.

My latest test uses three coats of non shrinking celulose dope, but the foam float body is still very soft, and I can really easily dig my finger nail into it. I was planning on adding varnish to but I'm surprised how soft the dope is, so not sure if I have done something wrong.

How long does dope take to dry and harder? Should it be harder than what it is now?

 

[Fred Davis]

Odd sounds as if you have poor quality rohacell

 

[Andy1989]

The bodies are from finess floats, which I have read are on the soft side. Wish I knew this before buying a bunch of them.

I also have some green H160 bodies from the-float-company which are noticeably harder. Not tried making anything these yet tho.

Nice to know you would expect them to be harder tho.

 

[Peter]

I have decided to have a crack at making my own pole floats. Happy with assembling the floats, but I'm struggling to find a good method to finish/paint them.

My latest test uses three coats of non shrinking celulose dope, but the foam float body is still very soft, and I can really easily dig my finger nail into it. I was planning on adding varnish to but I'm surprised how soft the dope is, so not sure if I have done something wrong.

How long does dope take to dry and harder? Should it be harder than what it is now?

Andy, there's a thread HERE (50 odd pages) that might be worth you're while taking a look at.

 

[carphauler]

I used to paint with 3 coats of water based acrylic then 2 coats floor varnish, they were pretty hard but not indestructible.

 

[acart8426]

Ronseal diamond hard floor varnish - 2 coats or G8 which is expensive . The longer you leave between coats the better and the varnish will be much harder . You can dip the float in G8 without thinning , put the tip on after if using hollow tips .

 

[parkes]

I dip mine twice in watered down acrylic paint then dip once in Ronseal varnish.
Yes, they seem to be on the softer side than say a shop bought float, but in everyday use (regular matchman) I have yet to destroy one. If a float was to suffer some damage to varnish coat or even body, it wouldn't really matter as you can literally build a float then coat with nothing and just fish it! The beauty of Rohacell foam.
Incidentally, when I have in the past used 2 coats of varnish and dried for a couple of weeks it went hard as nails more like a shop purchased glossy float.

 

[Mr Bite]

Use water based paints and finish with had as nails nail hardener.

 

[Capt Birdseye]

Keep at Andy. I started making pole floats during Lockdown 1 and now my workshop ( spare room) looks like a spring garden with a multitude of floats at various stages of assembly. I’ve sold some on to some friends and fellow anglers for a non-profit price but helps cover the cost of materials which mostly have to be bought in bulk quantities.

 

[Andy1989]

Thanks for the advice. I have tested the same finish (3 coats of dope + 3 coats of water based ronseal varnish) on the h160 foam bodies, and they feel so much better, even with a weeks less drying time. Just going to stick with these for now.

What's the general consensus on when you install eyes? Before or after painting?
I think before would result in a stronger eye as the dope and varnish will help hold it together, but on my tests it just got full of varnish and now looks a bit of a mess after digging it out. I'm using the new dura eyes by the way, the ones where the tip goes through the eye.