Pellet Waggler Tutorial

NathanWatson

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Oh, been a coulpe of times, won first time with about 180lb, blanked 2nd! Heard they lost a lot of fish, glad it's fishing well again!
 

wuffie

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Had a look back to Dave's article and it explains how to work the loop and the shot attachment perfectly.
After 40 (cough) years at this game it's always good to improve mainly thanks to the way fellow anglers share their knowledge.
Thanks to you and everyone else and long may it continue.
 

Lee B.

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I have read this thread with interest as I have only fished the PW infrequently; having a heavier hooklink than main line sounded wrong but then it was explained about the non stretch of the hooklink will go before the stretchier mainline. My question is why have a heavier hooklink as everywhere else finer lines for better presentation seem to be advised?

All the best, Lee.
 

NathanWatson

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Originally posted by Lee B.

I have read this thread with interest as I have only fished the PW infrequently; having a heavier hooklink than main line sounded wrong but then it was explained about the non stretch of the hooklink will go before the stretchier mainline. My question is why have a heavier hooklink as everywhere else finer lines for better presentation seem to be advised?

All the best, Lee.
I wouldn't call 0.18mm line heavy for decent carp, just normal. Heavier hooklengths can offer advantages when fishing on the drop though to give a slower fall.
 

dave brittain 1

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If you go back to my article and the float set up, I now use a 12in loop of twisted line. The twisted length of line allows you to change the depth by up to 1ft by moving shot along the line and due to the twisted line double thickness it helps you to keep the shot on the line.

Instead of tying a swivel on, I now simply thread a Cralusso Match Quick Swivel onto the twisted loop and this allows me to change hook lengths within seconds.

http://www.bobcotackle.co.uk/shop/Cralusso-Match-Quick-Snap
 

F1-Guerrilla

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Originally posted by NathanWatson

Originally posted by Lee B.

I have read this thread with interest as I have only fished the PW infrequently; having a heavier hooklink than main line sounded wrong but then it was explained about the non stretch of the hooklink will go before the stretchier mainline. My question is why have a heavier hooklink as everywhere else finer lines for better presentation seem to be advised?

All the best, Lee.
I wouldn't call 0.18mm line heavy for decent carp, just normal. Heavier hooklengths can offer advantages when fishing on the drop though to give a slower fall.
not only that. any lighter you have a good chance of getting broke.

joe carass new series in match fishing mag. underwater secrets seems to think thicker line sinks faster. you recon mate?.. not a big waggler man myself
 

iammrb

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Read that too the other day. They also agreed that they were surprised that wagglers with Anti dive discs out performed the others and weren't the gimmick they thought they were.
 

dave brittain 1

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Pictures of set up:







You can read as many PW articles as you want however when you look in the mags, most of the articles are written by anglers who are contracted to the magazine for a series of articles and fish the method occasionally.

Some anglers have fished the method week in week out for a number of years, winning a lot of matches with big weights adapting the method over a number of years to stay at the top and keep on winning.

When anglers are more concerned about gimmicky floats, minimal difference in line diameters and how quickly a line sinks they are lost before they have started.

The PW is a simple method and the basics haven't changed. It is all about feeding, depth and presentation. A simple 2 or 3 ssg PW, 12-14in hook length and 4lb mono main line and a few bags of 8mm coarse pellet is all you need to compete at the highest level.

Keep it simple, the best PW anglers are those who concentrate on feeding and work rate and to give you an idea I probably twitch the float and cast more than 400 times a match, while feeding 2-3 times a minute and landing fish in between
 
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dave brittain 1

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Dave (the moderator), has uploaded my set up pictures to my last post. If you look carefully you can see the twisted length of line that the shot sit on and the Cralusso quick change match swivel that allows me to change my hook length within seconds. The twisted line effectively gives a shorter stiff link and stops the shot pinging off the line.

The twisted length of line is easily formed by threading the quick change swivel on and then twisting the line between 3 and 12ins before tying it off with an overhand loop. It's a simple proven set up and works very well.
 

grumpy44

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Ive found this topic very interesting, and picked up quite a few tips. i use the p/w often (won a couple of matches using it in last couple of weeks). but i often confuse myself as i cant make up my mind about the best way to tie the hair. i use a small loop for the band tied off with a double overhand knot (which seems to stand off at an angle), and can never make up my mind how many turns round the hook, i do about 10/12 turns. any advice please
 

alfie

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Grumpy. 10-12 turns round the hook is plenty mate, just dont have the pellet to close to the hook. I think a minimum 1/4 inch from the bend of the hook
 

Brian the Fish

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I went back to Clearwater Lakes again on Thursday 24/07/2013 and decided to use my 13 foot 3-piece waggler rod but found it difficult to get fish the final couple of feet to the net, due to the bend in the rod. Applying more pressure just bends the rod more and the fish stays where it is.
After struggling with a few doubles I went back to my 11 foot 2-piece rod and had no further problems.
Is this usual or is the rod too light for the job?
Or should I get a longer landing net? [:D]
 
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dave brittain 1

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Chameleon.

Brian.

I had no problems with a 13ft rod and 3 piece landing net handle, however the advantage of a 11ft or 12ft rod is they bring the fish up much closer to the platform.
 

PrestonPoleFish

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I generally start of at about 3ft deep and ping three 8mm pellets over the top twice a cast, I overcast the feed, the I feed, wait 10s, then reel the float over the feed, feed again, wait 30s, then start again, this method virtually starves the fish into taking your hookbait.
Rig wise I use 8lb Power Max so as to be able to cast distance, a Preston Dura Wag held in place with a Feeda Bead and 4 float stops,then a loop to loop connection between the mainline and 12 inches of 0.17 Powerline to a size 18 PR36 and a notless notted bait band, the hookbait is an 8mm or 11mm hard pellet. These tactics have helped me catch carp in excess of 15lb at Viaduct Fishery in Somerset!
Elias.
 

philhayes1

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Originally posted by Brian the Fish

I went back to Clearwater Lakes again on Thursday 24/07/2013 and decided to use my 13 foot 3-piece waggler rod but found it difficult to get fish the final couple of feet to the net, due to the bend in the rod. Applying more pressure just bends the rod more and the fish stays where it is.
After struggling with a few doubles I went back to my 11 foot 2-piece rod and had no further problems.
Is this usual or is the rod too light for the job?
Or should I get a longer landing net? [:D]
I use a 10ft Middy Pellet Waggler rod. Like it a lot.

Phil
 

rudd

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An interesting read this has been and thought I should contribute.
I am no PW expert but have fished natural or managed traditional lakes for years using a variety of wagglers.
On many occasions I have caught big bags of Rudd/Golden Rudd or Roach using small insert wagglers fished shallow. This experience has taught me a few things.
The first is feeding. I have seen many PW articles/videos saying fire in three pellets at a time - I dont, I do the same as waggler fishing.
I will fire 8 to 10 baits, wait 5-10 seconds and fire in half the amount, wait 5-10 seconds fire in 3 baits - pick up rod and cast straight into feeding area.
Either hook fish or twitch bait a few times- then repeat.
Here is my theory: By giving a good number a bait each by feeding 8 or 10 they all get a taste but want more.
Then half the amount of bait arrives and only half the number get a freebie, next time half arrives again and its time to grab what they can, then the waggler/shot/bait arrive but there's only one bait they Can see and one will grab it.
I think that by only feeding three baits a time you will lose fish that are not getting
Anything - remember other species will also be in on the act grabbing what they can.
Point two is keep rig simple using lightest float you can get away with.
I like to feather the float so it makes a gentle splash not a racket.
Point three is to get hookbaits sinking slowly.
Where allowed use a dry expander that will slowly sink hook/band.
If not allowed band up and quickly dip in pellet/hemp or salmon oil.
Point four use soft rods with lower strain stretchy mainlines.
Its amazing what you can land.
A stiff or overly powerful rod will snap hooklenghts or pull the hook.

Had over 150lbs on Friday using 11ft mach3xt, 3000 reel, 5lb main, 3.4 to 14 hook with a band, 6mm pellet and NG Styrofoam float.
Not a method I have used much but did find you have to experiment with feeding to get results- they don't just hang themselves.
Also caught skimmers,Tench and some cracking Roach as well.
 

rubberducky

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is it another option to use a super heavy float perhaps 5ssg. this way the fish, primarily carp, hook themselves against the weight of the float in a bolt rig effect.

do people do this and does it work, or is a lighter approach more desirable?

rubberwaggy...
 
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