did you read floats direct help pages how to use the floats?
Clear plastic wagglers can often produce extra bites in very clear water. Some top carp matchmen swear by them. They also have the advantage of being almost unbreakable.
Loaded wagglers are good when fish aren't biting very well. Because you only need a couple of small locking shot, there will be less resistance on the float when it goes under.
When river fishing the best way to plumb the depth is to cast out and let the float run through the swim. Add two or three inches to the depth each cast until it starts to drag under. Then take an inch or two off and you'll have the perfect depth for the whole of the swim.
When waggler fishing, use line that can be made to sink easily. This will help you keep the line below any surface drift and it won't be affected by the wind.
You can give any float a camourflage effect by dabbing it with a tiny piece of sponge dipped into a contrasting paint colour.
Our peacock quill is straight otherwise you won't be able to cast in a sraight line.
When stick fishing use three rubbers to fix the float onto the line. If one breaks you can use the reserve and you won't have to tackle up again.
To get more distance when casting, don't use main lines heavier than 3lb unless you're fishing for carp. The thinner the line the more supple it is and the less resistance there will be through the rod rings.
The thinner the tip of the float the more sensitive it will be. If you are getting shy bites change to a model which has a thinner tip.
Always make sure you're able to slide shot up and down without damaging the line.
When shotting up wagglers, keep a couple of spare dropper shot with the bulk around the float so you have the option of moving them down the line if you want to get your bait to the bottom more quickly.
When casting, feather the line as the float is about to hit water. This will eliminate tangles and ensure the hook bait falls through the water as naturally as possible.
Try and obtain wagglers which are made from peacock quill. This natural material is hard wearing and has an excellent degree of buoyancy.
When fishing in open water use a float with a black top as this colour will stand out much better than a fluorescent colour.
Always use a hook length which is at least two feet long. This will provide an extra 'cushion' when playing a big fish.
Carry your floats in tubes rather than loose in your tackle box. It protects them better and they are less likely to bend.
Once this depth has been found, mark it on the rod by either noting the position of the float against a rod ring or better still, mark the depth with Tippex.
In really windy weather use a bodied waggler which has more stability. This will stop the float from rising and falling with the ripple or waves.
Use a float adapter so you can change a waggler for another in a matter of seconds.
Position your reel at the front of the rod handle. This will give you the required leverage for casting as well as balancing the rod and making it more comfortable to hold.
Use several small shot on stick float rigs as opposed to three or four large ones - in other words if it says 4xNo4 on the float don't shot it with four No4s! Using small shot means you'll be able to vary the presentation depending on how the fish are
Use a floating line on the stick float so you can easily 'mend' the line to keep it behind the float.
In bad winds, use a back shot which should be fixed around a foot above the float. This will sink the line above the float so it's not dragged out of position by the wind.
When river fishing - regardless of what float you use - always cast slightly downstream so the line is behind the float at all times. If you cast in front of you a bow will form and drag the float towards you.
Always carry a bottle of Tippex, float paint and a black waterproof pen so you can quickly change the colour of the float tip should the light change.
Trap your finger on the spool of your reel occasionally. This will make the float stop temporarily and result in the hook bait rising from the bottom. Roach, in particular, find this motion irresistible.
A closed faced reel is hard to beat on windy days. It gives more control and the line can't be blown back over the bail arm because, erm...it hasn't got one!
If you need to fish at distance with a stick float, choose a model that has a Lignum stem. Lignum wood is very heavy so it will outcast other stick floats every time.
On rivers which are carrying extra water, use a stick float with a shoulder so you can hold back without it riding up.
When fishing a stick float in summer it's best to use a strung out shotting pattern. In warm weather the fish are likely to be feeding up in the water.
If you're fishing with a stick float in an upstream wind, you can lift all of your line off the water and let the breeze form a bow which will allow you to almost hold the float dead still without it going off line.
If the river bed is free from snags you can drag up to two feet of line along the bottom providing you use a float with a thick buoyant top.
Don't be afraid to use hi-tech pre-stretched lines for hook lengths. Most of these lines now have a degree of stretch so they're perfectly safe to use on running line rigs.
When using a waggler, place at least 75 per cent of the float's capacity around the base otherwise it won't cast well and you'll find yourself undoing tangles for most of the session.
Never loose feed directly in front of you when river fishing. This could force the fish upstream and out of your swim.
If you're getting 'bitted' out, move most of your dropper shot so that they form a bulk which will drop your bait straight to the bigger ones below.
If you're not getting many bites, swap and change your shotting pattern. You'll be surprised at the difference a small adjustment can make.
For fishing on the drop use a waggler which has a thin insert glued into the top of the float. this will allow you to tell when a fish has intercepted the bait on the drop.
When river fishing in summer, always look to fish in the area of the swim which has the strongest flow.
When fishing for chub, feed first and then cast. This way you're guaranteed to have your hook bait falling through the water amongst your loose feed.
Learn to feed without having to put the rod down. Not only is this more efficient it also enables you to strike at bites which come straight away.
Check balsa floats and float bodies for cracks and chips. Touching them up with a dab of nail varnish will stop them taking on water and becoming less buoyant.
When waggler fishing make sure the locking shot are not pushed directly against the float. Leaving a slight gap between the shot either side of the float will help the tackle hang more naturally and result in better bites.
In really deep water try using a sliding float. As the name suggests, these slide up the line until they hit a stop knot which is set at the depth of the swim.
For waggler fishing use a rod which has a through action. This will aid casting and help prevent 'cracking off' on an over zealous strike.
Tip action rods are best for stick floats as they pick up line very quickly on the strike. The soft tip section provides the perfect cushion when you connect with a fish at short range.
Ensure you fill the spool of your reel right to the lip. This makes casting easier and when river fishing the line will peel off the spool smoothly while trotting. Also, carry a couple of spare spools with different breaking strains of line so you can choose the right one for the size of fish you expect to catch.
Stick float rigs can be stored on pole winders so you can make a few up before you get on the bank and if you need to change to a bigger float you can do it in seconds. This is also helpful if you suffer from a tangle.
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If you use float adapters, even completed waggler rigs can be stored on winders. Store the float seperate from the winder and just push it back into the adapter when you want to fish.