HOW TO: Refurbish a Rive D25 Seatbox


May 18, 2011
Recently I decided that I needed a new seatbox as my old Milo Modulo was becoming less practical the more I used it. The legs were too close to the body, there was no cassette, and it was extremely heavy.

As a youngster I was taken fishing by my uncle who fished with Barnsley Blacks and later Goldthorpe. I went to lots of matches and he taught me a lot (I might share some stories from those days later). For some reason I noticed and remembered everyone seemed to sit on the same box. A Rive. To my good fortune, he actually gifted me an old Rive box that I used for many years before getting my second box, which was the Milo one. It was simply a case of upgrading from an actual "box" with bolt on Octoplus legs, to a more up to date version with extendable legs, mud feet and a footplate. I looked for another Rive at the time so I could make use of my drawers and trays, but new/used they were simply out of my price range as an apprentice car mechanic.

Fast forward several years this month. I'm earning decent money and I want to upgrade, so I decided it was time. I decided I wanted to buy new so looked at various options. I found a few boxes a bit flimsy/fragile, I sat in one in the shop and the legs slipped, others I just didn't like for whatever reason. The only ones I had no issue with were Rive, however, even now the price tag put me off (I am a tight Yorkshireman after all).

It was at this stage I started to look at used versions and I was surprised at how cheap they could be bought, but with that came missing trays/casettes, broken drawers or other damage.

This gave me the idea of refurbishing a used box to nearly new giving me the best of both worlds. I continued to look for boxes and eventually found a D25 locally that had plenty of trays with a cassette that hadn't been removed and just enough drawers. The frame had seen better days, but that was to be the easiest part of the project so I didn't mind. The only negatives for me was that it didn't have 6 extendable legs (it only had two), and that the drawer units were anodised red.

Regardless I paid 200 for the box and got what I feel was a solid, usable box with plenty of space for a reasonable price. I could have used it as it was for years but I continued to refurbishing it.

Here is the box as I bought it. The tray on the top was just a heightening tray.


With the red anodised drawer unit it looked like this.


So I initially decided that I would do four things.
1. Strip the box to a frame and either prep and paint it myself, or have it powder coated. At the time this depended on cost.
2. Remove the anodising from the drawer unit
3. While stripped give everything a really good clean and lube
4. Replace the standard back plate with one from a D36 (for nothing other than cosmetic purposes and the fact I think they look great).

So here is a guide on how I stripped my box, as well as rebuilt it, along with a guide on de anodising trays/aluminium and how to fit a d36 backplate to a D25.

Stripping to the frame and rebuilding (may not be the same as all d25s)

Tools required
Cross point screwdriver
4mm metal drill bit
8mm spanner
Rivet gun
Four size 4x12mm rivets

1. Remove the cassette and all but the bottom tray that is fixed to the frame. Remove carry strap.

2. Remove the footplate by totally unscrewing the hand wheels either side. Ensure you retrieve the nuts from the inside of the rail. On one side of my footplate there was a 10mm lock nut. I'm not sure if this is standard but if it is this needs removing first. The footplate will then slide out.



3. Take your drill and 4mm bit and drill out the four rivets holding the base tray to the frame. Remove the base plate. Tap the rivets through into the frame if you haven't drilled the whole way through.

Repeat this process for the back plate.


4. Remove the leg tightening knobs and remove the legs.

5. Remove the plastic caps from where the legs were by tapping outwards, then remove the metal insert that is inside the frame. This can be a bit tight with corrosion so use your finger or last resort a screwdriver inside the leg hole to push them out.

6. Remove the cassette retainer securing the bottom with an 8mm spanner or socket and unscrewing the top.



7. Retrieve the rivets from the frame. Underneath the cross bars the rivets go into there are gaps at either end to shake them out.

Your frame should now be stripped ready for prepping and painting. I sent mine away to a powder coaters local to me in barnsley called LCS Powdercoatings (07790 906997) who did an excellent job of stripping and coating for just 31.


It is now time to rebuild your seatbox.

1. Replace the metal inserts into the leg section of the frame followed by the plastic caps and tightening knobs.

2. Replace the legs and tighten (doing this first stops your new shiny frame getting damaged).

3. Replace the cassette retainer. I found turning the frame upside down testing on the legs was easiest. The retainer then rests on the frame. Hold the screw upwards with one hand, insert the nut into the spring and compress the spring and rotate until it catches the screw. When you tighten ensure the nut tightens inside the hole if the retainer.

4. Slide in the footplate. Thread through the tightening knob and screw into the retainer behind. Tighten finger tight. If there was a locking nut to stop the rear retainer coming off replace this so it just locks into the end of the thread. Don't tighten this fully.

5. It is now time to rivet your base tray and back plate back into the frame. Place the tray in the frame and insert ALL four rivets. This will ensure the tray fixes in place an minimises hassle having to move it around to fix others in.


Pop the rivets, whatever corner you start in go to the opposing corner (top left to bottom right for example). Then pop the remaining two. Repeat this process for the back plate.

Your box should now look something like this so it is time to simply refit your trays, cassette and carry strap and go fishing.


So what about if like me you have anodised trays you want to match with standard silver of just want to remove the anodising? Here is what to do.

First you will need:
A plastic bucket or shallow plastic tray.
A rubber hammer. Or standard hammer and piece of wood.
500g concentrated caustic soda
A brush
Thick rubber gloves, goggles and mask for protection. Throughout the whole process.

1. Remove the trays you wish to de anodise.

2. Take apart the trays by gently tapping them apart on the outside with your hammer remove all the plastic brackets.


3. Add water to the bucket or tray FIRST and then add your caustic soda, mix with a wooden stick.

4. Drop your panels in the solution. Keep checking and rotating then regularly as well as scrubbing with the brush. The anodise will come off.


5. Thoroughly rinse the panels with water.

6. Dispose of the caustic soda solution. It's a drain unblocker no problems going down there but be careful you don't put it down the kitchen sink and ruin it as it will take off enamel etc.

7. Rebuild your tray/s by tapping the plastic brackets back into the panels. They will click into place and lock back together.

Job done.

I will complete the guide in the backplate ASAP and post below.


May 18, 2011
OK, here is a bit of guidance on how to fit a d36 backplate to your d25.

You will need:
A drill
4mm drill bit
A file
masking tape
Mastic gun
Clear sanitory silicone

1. Acquire the backplate and get it painted if you so wish.

2. Take your 4mm drill bit an drill the rivets on the existing backplate allowing it to be removed. Shake out the rivets from the frame.

3. Take your new back plate and hold it up to the frame. You should see that the plate is wider than the gap in the frame so it needs to be modified to get it to fit.

4. File away the flanges on the left and right side of the backplate. File it flush to the blackplate. Make sure you file towards the REAR ONLY. This will stop the plastic burring towards the visible side. If you so wish you can cut the bulk of this material away with a hacksaw but be careful not to cut too far.


This process allows that section of the plate to rest against the frame nice and neat. However it still will not fit at thos stage due to the top and bottom flanges still been too wide.

5. Take your file and carefully take away just enough of the plastic on the top and bottom flanges to allow it to fit between the frame. Do this neatly and square it off so again it fits flush and looks neet. Little bits at a time, check often.


6.You now need to take a bit off the bottom flange to stop it hitting the cassette rail which stops it pushing in far enough.

You can also see in the first photo where i have taken away these pieces.

7. Your plate is now ready to fix. Push the plate flush and remove the cassette so you can access the rear. Fix the plate in place with some masking tape to stop it moving out of place.

8. Take your mastic gun and get your silicone sealant ready. Apply a fine bead of silicone to the top of the bottom rail and the base of the top rail contacting the backplate. Wet your finger and smooth off, removing any excess silicone.

9. Allow to dry and remove the masking tape.

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