I've just got a Browning M-Spec and want to sort out the elastics etc.
What I'm trying to get my head around is that the match top kits are slightly longer than the power kits. By the time I cut the power kits back enough for a bush, if I want all the kits the same length, I will have to cut a lot off the match kits, almost back to the spigot with the 2nd joint. I will then end up with match kits with the action more like a power kit.
Hi, ive got a few questions if someone would help me out.
1. My pole has elastic ratings 18 on Power Top 2 kits and 12 with Match kits, whats the best elastic brand and rating to use on a commercial fishery with carp to 5lb and fishing tight to an island, and also the same fishery in openwater?
It used to be common practice to superglue bushes into place but it seems that for the most part that this is no longer done. If the bush is not glued, the strain will be almost completely on one small part of the pole tip (the direction that the fish is pulling. With the bush glued, the stress will be evenly spread around the whole diameter. Do you agree Dave?
Glueing the bush in place will not spread the force anymore than a tight fit will
The disadvantage of glueing bushes into place is that if you do need to change them you then have to cut back further and use a large bush as a replacement
Don't forget that when you've the slightest bend in your top sections, the elastic will be tight against the inner sides of the sections and this is where the forces are distributed, not just on one point
what are the advantages of the crow knot over a connector?
ive always used larger bush's then needed for my elastic thinking that the bigger the hole the easier the elastic will come out, and i overheard a tackle dealer the other day explaing to some new pole user that a bigger bush is better because if using smaller bushes water and elastic can form a vacuum and prevent elastic coming in or going out properly!
Being a Carp man and having never tried a pole before i bought a 5 metre margin pole for my missus to play with when she comes along with me to a commercial pond. Last time she got bored just sitting there watching me fish so next time (thought i) she can catch a few roach & bits,etc but then i thought i had better have a play with it before she did so as to have some idea about this Pole fishing malarky.
Never did i imagine it would be so much fun.
EEK !! I can feel myself being drawn over to the Dark side.
Hi dave, Im a new-ish boy on here but i have to say i dont agree with cutting the pole section/Tip back with a Junior Hacksaw! You may still crack the carbon/pole section. Far better to get a small file and cut into the section with the corner (side) of the file as you rotate the pole at the same time. Then just tidy it up with the file, Job Done!!! Try it, you should be impressed mate!!!
i seems most people use an eye threader made from piano wire to thread the elastic through their pole tops.
I used to do this, but found that after time the wire starts to kink and does not slide easily down the pole, so I gave some thought to what else I could use.
I came up with this, and it seems to work for me. (Apologies if this has been covered somewhere else. I did a search but couldn't find anything on it)
You will need to buy the following (or cadge of a sea angling mate):
10 inch sea baiting needle.
Size 2/0 eyed hook.
Length of 15 20 lb nylon.
1 inch long silicone rubber slightly larger diameter than the line.
Ensure the hole in the end of the bait needle is clean and dry.
Cut the shank off the hook. (Wire cutters better than junior hacksaw)
Put a drop of super glue in the hole of the bait needle and insert the eyed shank. Wait to set.
Tie your length of nylon to the shank.
Thread the silicone rubber on the other end of the nylon and then tie a loop 25% longer than the rubber. Pull the rubber up over the knot so it sits on the loop, and the knot stops it sliding back down the line. The knot on the loop has to go through your pole so do not use anything heavier than 20lb.
You are now ready to use the threader. Pass your elastic through the loop in the nylon line and pull the silicone rubber up and off the loop by inch and trap the elastic.
Insert the baiting needle into top of first pole section. The needle is heavy enough to slide all the way through. Do the same again for the next section and the third section if required.
Pull your elastic through, release from the loop and tie on to a winder bung, which is already cut to size.
Cut off the elastic at other end and tie to a connector, Then take up any slack on the winder bung until elastic is taut.
Hope I haven't bored anyone.
Hi All - Just found this forum again after having made a mistake over the last 6 years by carp fishing! Great tips on elasticating the pole tips. After a break of 6-7 years of pole fishing oh how things have changed - puller bungs and puller kits!!!!
My question is are 2 top kits and a cup kit enough for todays pole fishing? I'm not going to be fishing canals or matches, just sticking to plain old pleasure fishing at commercials. Elastics no bigger than a hollow 11 or grey hydro, and lightest blue hollow/hydro
Looking forward to your responses and also to some warmer weather
hope your well mate, was wondering the other day if you still fish.
been a long time since the good old fishsim meets eh mate. remember the fun times at furnace mill? used to be some good banter when we all got together.
cant remember where we fished when it was blazing hot, was it shatterford?
anyway hows you and everyone up there?
all the best
Dave I have recently been advised to use double elastic by some of the guys on here. Do I just elasticate in the normal way with a loop of elastic? Someone recommended Prestons elastic which I read comes joined and can be split after its been installed. I still don't know why I would need to seperate it?
Nice one even i could follow that..
Question do you elasticate the top 2 sections?.
Question how do you store the elasticated sections, do you pull them apart and just bend them double..
Just a thought for a numpty..