Home Made Sounder Box ....

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aliwil42

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lol just wondering..... me being a cheapskate and all... (Scottish :p) i was thinking about making a sounder box rather than buying one... also because i wouldl like to see if i can do it really i guess....

im thinking that all i need really would be a few 2.5mm jack plugs some cable and a speaker and an led....

was thinking about just running 1 cable from each of my 2 alarms and joining them together into a box with a piezo speaker and 1 LED...

but would this work ? ..

or does anyone know a better way to make it....

i had been thinking about a speaker and making just long cables with 2.5mm plugs on the ends and having seperate sockets on the box and a few LED's but havnt quite figured how to wire that one together so that the proper LED lights....
 

Beebs

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You're gonna hate me.

I've got a 4 way sounder box and to honest - it's a waste of money seeing which LED is on, because once you hear the scream, you take off for your rods with out looking.

Output from a buzzer is a DC level, so just feeding it into a speaker won't work. Unfortunately what you will need is a purely electronic solution.

You'll need to work out what voltage you want it to run on and then decide on which electronics to use - TTL is 5V but consumes more current. CMOS is 3V and consumes a LOT less current, so your battery life is significantly improved. Running each led is easy enough - you just run each input to a latching circuit so the appropriate LED stays on for a pre-determined time. A simple 555 timer circuit can do this for 1 led or 2x556's for 4 or 1x556 for 2 LED's. If you plan on using a blue LED you should know that they won't run on 3V and you'll need to use a voltage step up circuit (Switch mode power supply).

Each buzzer input will have to be fed to an OR gate to fire the signal to the extension buzzer driver circuit. You'll either need a 4 input gate for 4 buzzers or a 2 input for 2.

For sounders you have a couple of choices - DC or square wave driven piezos. A decent DC piezo will need at least 9V to drive it sufficiently, but if you plan on being asleep, you'll more than likely need 15V so another SMPS will be needed. For a square wave driven device, you'll still probably need 15V to drive another 555 to give you a decent amplitude square wave to make it audible.

If you're going to run 1 LED then you can use the spare OR gate on the chip but if you are running 4, you have to tie 2 of the gate inputs to ground and use the 2 remaining.

LED latching times are set by discrete components around your timer IC's and some basic maths will tell you what resistors and capacitors to use.

If you're planning on using a 555 to supply a square wave to a piezo then the output frequency is also set by discrete's around the chip and some more maths will give you the correct values.

You'll need some voltage regulators and if you want a REALLY long battery life, then another latching circuit controlling them to make sure they switch off when there is no action and only come on when you get a run and latch on for a short period of time unitl the next beep comes from the bite alarms.

The cost of doing this yourself is minimal. Providing you have the correct electronic tools the price of the components will probably come to no more than a tenner including the box to put it in. What it will be is time consuming with a little use of the old grey matter.

Hope this is of some use. If you want any more info, let me know as this is something I have a little knowledge of at the moment.[:)]
 

aliwil42

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The Whooshing sound of this going straight over my head was quite extroadinary...

but seriously.... thank you very much for a nice solution..

i will have a much better read over it in the morning... few beers has turned it all into so much text lol....

thanke for the reply and i will let you know how i got on :)
 

Beebs

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No worries mate. The whisky swilling around my head has numbed me as well at the moment, so the bad news is there may be something I've left out!!!!

Like I said, I can pretty much give you the circuit drawings for them, but you'll have to assemble them yourself.[:D]
 

jonesr

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Beebs,the words " Baffled by Science " [:(]Spring to mind! [:0][:0]
I for one will just go and buy the item,if required!!!!!!!![V]
But a brilliant answer![^][^][^]

Ron J

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I INTEND TO LIVE FOR EVER,SO FAR SO GOOD!
 

Geoff P

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Why don't they sell quiet ones?

Geoff
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esox.20

04/11/01 - 12/10/15
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Beebs re the 555 please correct me if I'm wrong but doest that particular one drain the batteries? I had an optonic with a 555 included for a latching led and the batteries drained very quickly. I was told later that a better alternative was available.

chill out go fishing

Datafile2.asp
 

Beebs

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It depends how it's configured and what electronics you're using.

TTl drains about 10 times the amount of current that CMOS does, so if a TTL 555 will draw 9mA when running at full capacity, then a CMOS 555 will typically draw around 0.9mA.

Also, you can use the 555 as the supply for a 'trigger' pulse to power your voltage regulators. You can set the on time of the pulse to whatever you want, but by using this to trigger the regulators, the only part of the circuit that is powered on in standby mode is the supply voltages for the chips, which will in turn draw negligible current unless actually in use.

For instance, the timer will sit there drawing virtually no current until it gets a trigger which will switch it on for, say, 5 seconds. It can only get this trigger from the bite alarm. It will then wait for 5 seconds (if that's what you set it to) before powering down again. If you get another bleep within that 5 seconds, the circuit will reset and carry on powering the regulators which power the LED's and sounder. Basically, with no beep, the batteries should last a helluva long time. It all depends which technology the manufacturer is using and how they have it configured, but a 555 timer should not drain the batteries unless the circuit has been designed by muppets.

At the end of the day, it's not the chip that drains the batteries, but the way it's been configured.

Hope that helps.[:)]
 

MALC

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Think i'll stick to a coin on the spool and a metal pan under that.[;)][;)][;)]
It's a lot simpler.[:)][:)]

RED WAS
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I'VE STARTED CATCHING NOW HE'S GONE..!!
 

Beebs

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Malc - I'm with you. Sod the lot of it and use a float, that's what I say. I spenty yesterday trotting a stick float down a beautiful stretch of river and didn't hear a bite alarm all day - heaven.

Esox - chances are if it's draining you're battery, the optonic is using TTL logic chips. TTL is more resistant to being mishandled than CMOS, but any decent electronic manufacturer would use CMOS, because it's a lot more power efficient. TTL is used by first year electronic students becasue you can throw them around and re-use them, but if I was manufcturing any electronic unit, I'd plug in a grounded wrist strap and use CMOS, because the advantages are more numerous.




Can I stop being a smart arse now please? It was much easier abusing people!!!!![}:)][:p][;)][:D][8D]
 
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esox.20

04/11/01 - 12/10/15
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Thanks beebs, the modifications I had done to my optonics caused a massive battery drain, so much so a battery lasted a matter of hours. In the end I binned them, the blame was put on the 555 chip used.

chill out go fishing

Datafile2.asp
 

Beebs

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quote:Originally posted by esox.20

Thanks beebs, the modifications I had done to my optonics caused a massive battery drain, so much so a battery lasted a matter of hours. In the end I binned them, the blame was put on the 555 chip used.

Oh dear. Sorry to hear that John. Don't want to be the prophet of doom, but I'm pretty sure the chip was not to blame. A battery only lasting a couple of hours indicates a severe problem. A battery in a sounder box or buzzer should last years if configured correctly.
 

davidsenior

15/03/03 - 22/06/16
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Hi guys, I can't understand why you need 555 chips just to catch fish???

Also I thought TTL was a photographic expression (through the lens).

Really dont know why I came on this site in the first place, it's full of smart a***s, I can't keep up !! OOOOOOh MY BRAIN HURTS .LOLOL





catch you later, tight lines, dave....
 

aliwil42

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Okies..... after careful consideration..... and a Whole Heapful of jargon (j/k) from beebs.... i think i may go with the shop bought item lol....

I do often use a float simply because i enjoy float fishing but i recently bought a pair of Bitech viper micro alarms and the volume on one of the alarms doesnt seem to be adjustable... i tried taking it apart to see if i could spot an obvious fault but the screw on the back had been mashed by a very large turnip (My Theory) and i couldnt be bothered to get it out....

only reason i wanted the sounder box is because i am going night fishing tonight and wanted to be able to put the box beside me and not wake everyone else as well lol.....

not to worry... ill have a look for one today... and if not then ill use another of my alarms which does go loud enough...

Thanks again for the replys beebs....

and if i ever do get around to making one then ill make a quiet one just for you Geoff.... hehehe "Vibrating Sounder".... works for mobiles doesnt it lol
 
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