Have a look at the link in post 8 by #NoCarpPlease & read chapter 3, sadly the diagrams aren’t shown. Basically, thread a link swivel onto your main line & tie a loop about 12 to 24” long with a double overhand knot. Then slide the swivel up to the knot & tie another overhand knot creating a loop for the swivel to run 6 to 12”. Then attach your hooklength to the bottom loop. You ensure the bottom loop is longer than your feeder plus whatever link you’re using so it doesn’t hit your hooklength & damage it. The length of the loops is really up to you as long as the length of that bottom loop is protecting your hooklength.what is the loop rig mate .
You’re right, Lee, but I tend not to. If I need to change my hooklength for any reason I cut it off. Slippery slope them beads - start with one then, before you know it, you find reasons to start adding more....?As Rueben explained but consider not attaching the hook length loop to loop.
Add a quick change clip,bead etc to the main line end loop and this will enable you to ring the changes length,hook size,bait etc
what river are you fishing rd115?
yes - rod tip high is part of the picture (I use a 15ft feeder rod sometimes for this benefit)
casting out in front or upstream
feeding the bow
15 lbs line sounds like Big Barbel gear rather than feeder fishing line - so others may be better placed to advise.
For someone watching a quivertip like me - the bow is a really simple method on flowing waters like Trent, Severn and Wye.
It'll be the Trent near Shardlow/Sawley Weir, have a 12ft Greys barbel rod and an 11ft Ninja X continental style feeder rod, need to get some proper Barbel rods really. The greys only has a 90g casting weight.
Listen up mush, I just wish I had the fast flowing rivers of your area near me. I hope you realise just how lucky you are.
We have told you why, the bite dislodges the weight,sets the hook and hence a more positive bite.
You stick to the sprat catching with your 1/4 pint of maggots PG