Plumbing the stick float.

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joe0709

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How do you guys do it on a moderately fast flowing river when you are fishing, say over 3 rod lengths out to get maximum accuracy ?
 

stikflote

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a lot of the time i dont plumb a river on a stick, i guesstimate the depth and have a run thru if it doesnt snag i deepen up ,then shallow up a bit, a river will never have a even
bottom ,
 
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keep adding depth til it drags bottom then take an inch or 2 off until it passes through without dragging under.
 

tc20002000

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i try not use stick that far out better with waggler if not try farily heavy plummet to get it out and just keep ajusting untill float comes up or just play about by moving float up untill it drags under
 

codenamemilo

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You dont need to plumb the stick mate, depth will be variable on most swims as you trot trhough anyway so its pointless.

Take a guess at the depth, then keep going a little deeper til it starts to drag and stops going through nicely. Shallow off an inch or two and jobs a good'un
 

MrV

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Difficult to do that far out Joe unless you use a very heavy plummet. I usually guess the depth, unless on a new river to me, and have a few trial runs through the swim until it just drags under, then adjust according to bites. [;)]
 

joe0709

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So I have been doing it correctly then, I did make the mistake of trying to plumb it up many times but as you say it kept sinking and reappearing etc. so I used the readjust technique.

Thanks guys [:T]
 

Jessebobs

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Run the float through the swim with no bait a few times to get an idea of the contours of the bottom. Once you're happy with your depth setting, mark it on the rod or make a mental note of which ring the float is nearest, then you can play around with the depth till you get bites. Fish a bit overdepth and hold back where it shallows up.
 

castaline

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All good advice so far regarding plumbing depth, but as codenamemilo says, why fish three rodlengths out with a stick?
A stick float, unlike a waggler, needs to be fished with as much line as possible off the surface,( this ensures that you have direct contact between the rodtip and the float ), but if you cast out more than a rodlength or so, the float will always 'drag' back across the current and back in line with your rod tip.
So if you are casting out more than a rodlength, then feeding loose maggots, etc, by the time your float has settled into it's run, your float will be running through closer to the bank than your loosefeed.
Hope this makes sense,
Castaline
 

nick2b

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I'm amazed at the amount of responces questioning the stick over 3 rods out!
Fishing 'out' on the stick is not easy, it requires perfect shotting as an overhead cast is usually required, a long rod and favourable wind and flow (very difficult if you have significantly faster water closer in).
However, once perfected it will heavily out-score a wagg in the winter, on clear rivers when its a bit iffy - especially for roach.
The biggest mistake people make is fishing too light a float - I would normally fish an olivette of about a gram and a half with 3 or 4 droppers when fishing like this.
As far as plumbing is concerned, again, I am surprised at the responces. Fix on a plummet and over head cast, don't worry if it doesn't fly through the air like an arrow. As soon as it hits the water, trap the line against the spool and 'lower' the rig through the water. This will give a reasonable starting point which you can then adjust from.
I admit this is not easy and practice does make perfect, but I can honestly say, if I was to pick 1 venue (middle Trent) and 1 method which I would say was may favourite, this would be it - and 20lb of caster roach of course!
 
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When im fishing over 3 rods out i tend to side cast holding the line and flicking it out,i hardly ever over head cast as usulay tangle on landing.That usualy sees me to the far bank on the swale with a 6x4 stick.If your fishing any further I would use a longer rod as nick says.
However,the whole plumet thing,I cant suss,surely the flow will drag the float under making it impossible to determin the depth?? I have always been taught to drag through then shallow up.
 
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mickthechippy

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If your fishing over three lengths change your float to a big stick or the king of floats, the avon,

over 3 lengths the ability to control a light float allmost dissapears, 5/6 BB plus is the option

much greater control is achieved, the ability to hold back and mend the line is far greater with a shouldered float, feed your loose on the line before the cast, then the bait will fall naturally in the cloud, if you need the feed to get down quick mix it with some molehill dirt and ball it in

with the bigstick or the avon due to the shotting weights you can normally get as far as you need with the underarm cast

Im not sure of venues like the trent/severn etc but on the chalk streams- rivers I fish this works okay
 

stikflote

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you should always cast a stick float under arm or side ways useing both hands ,not over head other wise it will tangle
 

dave brittain 1

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Nick.

Although I have no problem with fishing the stick 3 rod lengths or so out, the bolognaise or top and bottom slider at range on rivers like the Yorkshire Ouse, Tees and the Wye, I totally disagree with your comment, "once perfected the stick will heavily out-score a wagg in the winter, on clear rivers when its a bit iffy - especially for roach."

The waggler when fished properly is a devastating method and an low and clear rivers will often outscore the stick especially when there's a downstream wind, when you need to drag a bait through well over depth and when the fish are coming off the bottom.

Like any venue, every method has it's day. If there's extra water in the stick does come into it's own, however if I had to choose between the waggler and the stick and could only carry one float in my box it would be a waggler.

As for the plumbing cast under arm and downstream, trapping the line keeping everything straight until the plummet hits the bottom, (at this point your line should be at an angle coming up towards you). Let the line go and the when the float bobs up appearing for a second or so you're not far off the depth. Take the plummet off and run the float through changing your depth until it drags through without going under. Plum several areas working downstream to make sure that you are aware of any changes in depth.

If you find a spot where the float starts to slow or drag, just hold it back slightly or check the float, (if it's far enough down the peg there's a good chance that there's a bar or a change in depth and this is where you are most likely to catch).
 
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stikflote

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Originally posted by nick2b

I'm amazed at the amount of responces questioning the stick over 3 rods out!
Fishing 'out' on the stick is not easy, it requires perfect shotting as an overhead cast is usually required,
i was alway taught tha t a stickfloat should be cast by holding line above hook in left hand
pull and put curve into rod and cast sideways def not overhead on a stick
 

nick2b

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Some really interesting replies here, it just goes to show that we all have our own ideas about things.
Regarding overhead casting, it takes lots of practice, and like I said, the correct shotting, usually all in the bottom half. It is also really important to stop the float dead before it hits the water - a bit like you would do a feeder, and cast in a sort of arching loop.
Fishing the distances I am talking about (1/3 to 1/2 the way across the middle Trent), you really wouldn't reach them with an underhand cast.
This is a fantastic method, when you get it right you can make the float do hand-stands mid river - BUT it isn't easy.
Shaun, we used to fish the middle Tees like this 25 years ago and catch loadsa dace!
 
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